The Promised Land: Ometepe

Nicaragua's dramatic candidate for 'Eighth Wonder of the World, ' Isla de Ometepe is exquisite: two volcanic peaks rise from the hazy blue expanse of Cocibolca, 'the Sweet Sea' (Lago de Nicaragua), and form an hourglass of beaches and jungles cinched to a sinuous isthmus between them.

 

It seems unsullied, and spectacularly so, protected from so many of the world's follies, including a lot of tourist infrastructure, by a cool, clean moat. But it's most certainly worth roughing it a bit to see primary forests trade off with organic farms in the folds of the volcanoes' fertile skirts, teeming with howler monkeys and parrots, and hiding a wealth of archaeological treasures.
Ometepe is an island formed by two volcanoes rising from Lake Nicaragua in the Republic of Nicaragua. Its name derives from the Nahuatl words ome (two) and tepetl (mountain), meaning two mountains.

 

Ometepe means "between two hills," in Nahuatl, the indigenous language of Nicaragua, and Isla de Ometepe is 276 square kilometers of pristine forest, archeological treasure troves, wildlife, and culture worth studying for months, but enjoyed in a few days. The island consists of two volcanoes, Concepción (1610 meters) and Maderas (1394 meters), joined by a land isthmus. The surrounding waters of Lago Cocibolca, or Lake Nicaragua, are home to the world’s only species of freshwater shark.

 

WHY GO?

 

The forests afford plentiful opportunities to observe monkeys, armadillo, opossum, anteaters, deer, bats, and the most robust insects, reptiles and amphibians. White sand beaches offer tranquility and romance between days of hiking and climbing. And the best part is that Ometepe is still off-the-beaten-path. You won’t find screaming resorts or even big eco-lodges. Instead, you will have plenty of space and quiet to observe and enjoy all this pristine island has to offer.

 

WHEN TO GO

 

Dry season lasts from December through May, though the best cultural festivals take place in November and July. Wildlife viewing is excellent year-round, and is one of the island’s main attractions. Over 80 bird species inhabit the island. Migrating birds flock to Ometepe in May.

 

The two volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas, are joined by a low isthmus to form one island in the shape of an hourglass. Ometepe has an area of 276 km². It is 31 km long and 5 to 10 km wide. The island has a population of 35,000, and an economy based on livestock, agriculture, and tourism. Plantains are the major crop.

 

Volcanoes

 

Volcán Concepción (once named Ometepe volcano) is the northwest half of the island. Concepción is a symmetrical cone, and is still considered an active volcano (Baker, 2006). Concepción volcano rose in the early Holocene Epoch and, through continual eruptions, now reaches an altitude of 1 610 m. It is the world's highest lake island. This volcano is considered the most perfectly formed volcano cone in Central America.

 

The volcano went through a long quiet period, but on 8 December 1880 Concepción came back to life. This eruption was extensive, and the volcano remained active for a year. More eruptions followed in 1883, 1889, 1902, 1907, and 1924. The most recent eruption was in 1957. This eruption was extremely violent; however few of the island's inhabitants heeded the order from the government in Managua to evacuate the island.

 

The southeast half of the island consists of Volcán Madera, which has a crater lake and supports a diverse rainforest environment. This volcano also arose in the Holocene Epoch, and rises 1 394 m above sea level. The last eruption occurred in the 13th century. It is considered extinct or dormant.

 

A large lagoon formed in its crater, and was discovered on 15 April 1930 by the farmer Casimiro Murillo. It is covered with coffee and tobacco plantations and the remaining rain forest. This volcano is a perfect destination for the ecotourist. Much of this part of the island is now a nature reserve.

 

The volcanic ash has made the soil of this island extremely fertile, allowing continuous planting without fallowing. The volcanoes are visible from everywhere on the island, and life on Ometepe revolves closely around them. They also play an important part in the myths and legends of the island, which once served as an Indian burial ground.

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